Fantastic Food Sets the Scene at Downtown Fullerton Hotspot
The Commonwealth is a sophisticated addition to the SoCo district.
David Stelzmuller
Issue date: 9/19/07 Section: Local
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Located at the corner of east Commonwealth Avenue and south Harbor Boulevard, it is not a hard place to find. From the marble counter tops at the bar to the leather booths and glowing chandeliers, everything about the Commonwealth embodies the classic Rat Pack style.
Even though it has been open less than four weeks, locals have taken notice and packed the lounge on any given weekend night. Despite a two-hour wait for a table in the restaurant portion of The Commonwealth, guests can easily settle into the plush leather chairs that populate the bar.
The first item on the menu that all guests should start with is a bowl of "clam chowdah," which comes recommended. A soup often found and seldom enjoyed, due to too much cream and too fishy a taste is a special treat here. This time, it is creamy with notes of white wine, without being too thick, the Achilles' heel of so many chowders.
Guests move on to their entrées while enjoying the live jazz band and sneaking glances at the large plasma TVs above the bar playing Casablanca instead of the usual sports highlights. Though the order consisted of what might normally be regular bar food, grilled chicken and sliders, the entrées that arrived were anything but.
The sliders are made from shaved prime rib and kissed with the Commonwealth's signature barbeque sauce. They are piled high on freshly baked sourdough rolls with a melted slice of crey havarti cheese and are easy to devour. The small sandwiches came paired with a horseradish aioli, not at all too spicy, and a sautéed shallot au jus that the bread stood up to admirably despite repeatedly getting soaked in it.
The "Statler Chicken" was outstanding as well. The grilled chicken had that distinct char-grilled flavor, but a light tangy citrus marinade truly elevated the dish. A bed of creamy Romano cheese mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus that retained a bit of snap and had a hint of garlic rounded out the memorable dish.
The menu is teeming with original takes on classic American bar food and guests will only regret that they do not have a second stomach to fill. The grilled three cheese sandwich with a crock of today's soup, macaroni and cheese, sea bass, or the CW Filet Mignon all seemed too good to pass up.
2008 Woodie Awards

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